Book Excerpt 2:Create this Classic and Stunning look from "The Art and Science of Makeup"

The Art and Science of MAKE UP

CLASSIC WINGED LINER AND RED LIPS

 This look is a simple yet effective way to add instant glamour to your face and suits just about everyone!

Create it effortlessly in these few simple steps:

1. Using the smoothing technique of applying foundation, apply a high coverage foundation on the face.

In this case a high quality cream foundation is recommended. (Such as Miracle touch from Max Factor, Matte cream foundation from Ben Nye or Studio finish from Mac)

2. Dust over your base with a small quantity of loose powder using a fan shaped brush.

3. Next, apply some powder blush in a colour matching your skin tone on the pad of the cheeks. Be careful to apply only a small quantity as you will already have a dramatic eye and lip application.

4. To create winged eyeliner effortlessly use a good quality gel based liner. We love the ones from Mac and Inglot. Using a clean and well maintained eyeliner brush draw at first a very thin line close to the lashes. Next, using the brush to create a tip of the desired length at the outer corner of the eye.

Now that you have your basic shape build over it till you get the desired thickness you like.

For an added touch of glam you can also put kohl or black pencil in the inner rim of eye. We love the Bourjois clubbing liner and eye pencil range for their long lastingness and dramatic black colour!

5. Frame your lashes with two coats of mascara on both top and bottom lashes. For this look we recommend Max Factor false lash effect mascara for an ultra glam finish.

6, Use an eyebrow pencil or eyebrow brush to gently groom eyebrows into place.

7.To apply the perfect red lipstick start by exfoliating lips with a soft flannel cloth then apply a coat of lip balm and dab a tissue over lips to absorb any excess grease. Next, use a concealer to cover entire lips so that you have a nice clean canvas for the lip colour to really stand out.

When working with strong lip colours ,we find that it’s better to use a nude lip pencil to draw an outline (this way if it goes wrong you can easily correct it).Create an outline that extends slightly (very slightly)out of your natural lip line and then use the same pencil to fill in the lips.

Now that you have a firm base fill in lips with a red lipstick (preferably a cream or gel based lipstick).

Contrary to popular belief red actually suits everyone but the shade of red will vary according to complexion. As a general rule of thumb fairer skins work better with coral or pink reds whereas darker skins look better with maroons or deep orange reds. If in doubt, when buying a shade of red at the store request to use a tester and photograph it under different lights (strong white light, candlelight etc)

Don’t underestimate the power of instinct in guiding you-if something doesn’t feel right-it probably isn’t!

Once you have applied your favourite red, go over the lip line once again with a matching lip pencil to neaten up your lip contour and ensure your lips don’t “bleed” colour later!

For a really good finish touch up with loose powder under the eye, and around the mouth.

Voila!!You are ready to mesmerize!!

Love Makeup?!Create more looks like these from our latest book "The art and science of Makeup"
http://lilacmakeup.blogspot.in/2014/05/book-excerpt-from-art-and-science-of.html

Copyright

Copyright © 2014 by Lippi Lal All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, distributed, or transmitted in any form or by any means, including photocopying, recording, or other electronic or mechanical methods, without the prior written permission of the publisher, except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical reviews and certain other non-commercial uses permitted by copyright law.

PART 1: SPECIAL OCCASION AND BRIDAL MAKEUP

Book Excerpt from "The Art and Science of Makeup"

The Art and Science of MAKE UP

HOW DO I CHOOSE COLOURS TO SUIT SKIN TONE:

Given below are the various methods to help you to choose suitable shades for face, eyes, lips and nails for various skin tones, But firstly, it is important to understand the makeup artists’ canvas-The skin, and

Its various tones:                                                                         

SKIN TONES

What is it that determines our skin colour? We tend to think of skin colour as what we can see visibly with our naked eyes and tend to define this in terms of light or dark.

However the colour of the skin is not just determined by the outer colour but something we call an “undertone”.

To understand this we will have to revisit a principle of physics called “light refraction’. When light enters our skin, it penetrates the skins many layers and travels back out of the skin, in the process reflecting the tones and colours of the various cells and blood vessels inside the skin!

Normally our principle skin tone is created by the amount of melanin pigment we have in our skin-the people who have more melanin will have darker skin and people with less melanin have lighter skin.

However, our undertone is a “reflection” of the colour not only of our skin pigment but also the tones of the various skin cells and blood vessels underneath, which are reflected back when light, refracts from our skin.

For example, we may be very “fair skinned” with very less melanin in our skin and as a result prominent blood vessels under the skin become more visible giving us a “pink undertone”. Conversely, our skin may have so much melanin that it appears dark on the surface and since the melanin completely covers our blood vessels our undertones may appear “yellowish”. Another factor to consider is that fair and dark have different meanings in different parts of the world, as they are comparative concepts!

For example, famous Indian actress Kareena Kapoor (see picture) may be considered very fair in India where a majority of the population has brown skin, whereas in Europe she would be considered medium skin toned!

In Mexico or South America Penelope Cruz may be considered fair but in Norway she would be considered dark!

Nevertheless, to make life simpler, we have divided skin colours into three different categories: Fair, Medium and Dark but taken these as benchmarks in context of different parts of the world.

Furthermore, the skins are divided into three different undertones:

Ivory: This is the undertone found in women with very pale skin giving the

skin an alabaster type appearance.

This type of undertone can often look “pale and unwell” without makeup.

Beige: This undertone is usually apricot/beigish pink in colour and is found on medium skin women. They are the lucky ones who can look perfect even without makeup! The term “peaches and Cream complexion was probably coined to describe this kind of skin tone!

Ochre: This is the most common skin tone found in Indian and Asian skins and people with this tone have an almost “yellowish” colour to their complexion. Without makeup, this type of undertone can look ashen and lack radiance and glow. 

Our CEO and founder Lippi Lal has just published her first book The Art and Science Of Makeup on Amazon Kindle!Download it today to learn how to create your favourite looks!http://www.amazon.in/gp/product/B00JMZ7C9Q?%2AVersion%2A=1&%2Aentries%2A=0

 PART 1: SPECIAL OCCASION AND BRIDAL MAKEUP

Copyright

Copyright © 2014 by Lippi Lal All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, distributed, or transmitted in any form or by any means, including photocopying, recording, or other electronic or mechanical methods, without the prior written permission of the publisher, except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical reviews and certain other non-commercial uses permitted by copyright law.

Choosing the right Stylist Part 1: STYLISH RANTS

There are as many stylists out there, as there are willing and eager clientele who want a professional to change their look.
The relationship between a stylist and their client is an important and delicate one and believe it or not the quality of the relationship has a strong influence on the eventual results you  get with your styling!
Don't believe me?Consider this:Styling (whether its hair,makeup clothes,interiors.etc) is part science, part art.
The science part are your basic principles(following the structure of the face,not jabbing a lipstick in your eye,not using holi colours as hair colour substitute,etc).The art bit,well,this a tricky one,largely depends on the stylist's innate creativity and energy "flow" at any given moment.
So,quite simply if your stylists energy flow is disrupted for any given reasons,at the precise moment you decide to try the new bob you have always wanted since 1982-good luck with the results(regardless of how well she/he uses the science bit!).
Now,I am not in any way trying to ask you to assume responsibility for whether your stylist's "energy"is on the right side of the tracks or not!
However, after working with hundreds of clients in my 20 year career as a stylist I do believe I have the formula for a pretty good (if not perfect)Stylist/Clientele "Love Story".And we all know that Love makes energy flow better right?And better energy equals a better styling result!
This is my first in a series of articles about choosing and keeping the right stylist for you.
Let us begin with a list of "Things you should never say to your stylist and things your stylist should never say to you" (This,like any other significant relationship is a two way street)

Things you should never say to your stylist:

1.Who are you (IE I have never heard of you before)?
OK people,this one can really hurt your stylists feelings because it basically tells them you think they are not good enough,but are "settling"for them because you cant "afford"the more famous stylist.Remember that just because someone is not super duper famous they are not necessarily. not good at their work.There are discreet ways to dish the dirt on your stylist (use the Internet or ask friends for references)but don't cut short a promising relationship with that sentence!

2.I am getting a better rate at XYZ's place.Why do YOU charge so much?
OK ladies and gentiles,agreed that you probably ARE getting a better "deal" somewhere else,but that question straight and straight sounds like a terrorist attack on the stylists(probably only) means of livelihood.
Stylists rates are determined basis many many things including the equipment they use,hours and hours of training they went through (and paid very heavily for),taxes,rent,food,shelter...and of course their creative inputs which are unique.You get the picture.
If you really do have a budget,better you tell the stylist upfront "I have a certain price that I can pay right now..or "Do you have anything in the price range of...".If you ask nicely you may get a discount or a really good and sincere stylist may redirect you to someone with more suitable prices.Remember,your budget is YOUR decision.If you are not willing or able to pay what your stylist asks,then politely find another,but don't attack their rates,because they may not suit you.

3."Just do whatever you think is right....I am not fussy..."
Um mm err,excuse me?/You really think YOU are not fussy?Knock Knock!!If you re "Not fussy"about your appearance then why are you at the stylists in the first place?I have seen so many people go to stylist with no clear idea of what they want,and then get angry with the STYLIST when they don't end up looking they way they want!Come on people,we are not mind readers and clairvoyants!Be specific or be willing to bear the consequences.Your best bet is to use a picture that closely resembles what you want and then tell also your stylist verbally, in as much detail as possible ,what you are looking for.Also remember the golden rule:NEVER let a creative person,do exactly what THEY want on your body/face/living room-you may just become the only willing victim for the new "Marlyn Mason"look they always wanted to try but never found a "volunteer"for...now you know why!Touche!

4."I want to look just like Katrina Kaif...",
"I am actually 10 shades fairer then this...can you make me look my "real"colour... or 
"I don't want to cut colour or straighten my hair but still want it to look different..."
.....and so on and so forth..
Its time for us stylists to tell you all some very profound truths: A.The only person who looks like Katrina Kaif is guess who?Katrina Kaif!She has the sole rights to her face and she's not franchising! B..The only known living human to have radically altered his skin colour was Michael Jackson and C.Honey pie,even the most talented stylist in the world has to actually "change"your hair to "change"your hair!
Please understand that stylists are stylists-not plastic surgeons,spin doctors or relatives of Gandalf from Lord of the rings!A really good stylist will make you look like the best Meena Bakshi or Anna Smith or Tejal Gandhi.We all have our own unique beauty!Embrace it and allow the stylist to enhance it!

5."Can you also trim my sister/dog/watchman's hair..it will only take 5 minutes..."or
 "Can you paint my nails for free since you are charging SO much for the makeup..."
OK.So all we have to say here is ,that if you have ever been to eat a thali at a thali joint,you will see a notice on the wall which says "Sharing not Allowed"Same rules apply here.

Now am sure that all this ranting has made you wonder...but hey hang on a minute,sometimes it's my stylist who is an A****h##e..
I couldn't agree more,so this brings us to the next section of this article...

What your stylist should never say to you...

1."You have put on sooo much weight!!"
"You really should get that cream I told you about,your crow lines are SO starting to show..."
OK,so I know I said that the stylist/client relationship is an "intimate"one,but not to the extent that the stylist mistakes you for their kid sister!While its perfectly acceptable for your stylist to give you advice when asked for,unsolicited advice,personal comments and so on are just downright invasion of privacy!I once went to a hairdresser who while washing my hair,kept complaining about how dry it was,how much hair I was losing,and how eventually I was going bald!I had gone to the salon that day to feel "better"about myself after having endured a rough phase of ill health,disastrous relationships and general life grief!Needless to say I was temptingly eyeing my Crocin packet later that night and wondering what an extra dose may do...(thankfully the optimist in me prevailed).
In simple words,if your stylist gets too personal in ways that are uncomfortable to you,let them know it and if they don't change their behaviour get another stylist!

2."I am giving you this season's Miley Cyrus cut and that's it...no argument!"
Errr Pardon me?While its perfectly acceptable for your stylist to "recommend" a look they really should not be imposing it on you.
"Looks"whether makeup/hair/clothes..etc,should be a joint discussion and agreement not a diktat from any stylist panchayat!

3."That will be xyz for your session plus this and that and sundry...."
I don't know about you but I like to know my costs upfront.Nothing is more annoying and also awkward then thinking you are paying x and actually paying why.To avoid this confusion ask upfront "Is this a total cost or are there other costs I may need to pay for/ extras?"At Lilac we follow a transparency policy-all our costs have to be explained upfront to our clients so they are not shocked or feel cheated later.

4."Oh darling...You re gonna have to wait till July 2020 for an appointment...."
While its true that a celeb stylist or a really popular one may have a bulging little black book,your time is as important as any celebrity stylist! Don't fall into the trap of waiting and waiting just because its trendy to wait!I am going to quote an example of my Gynaec here.(yes,yes,laugh if you must,but Doctor/ Patient relationships are as sensitive as Stylist/Client ones!)I had this Gynaec I would visit for routine checks who was touted as one of the best in town-and she was,no doubt a really good doctor.But I spent nothing less than 3 hours in her waiting room on each visit,and after exhausting all the dog eared copies of Femina and Filmfare the clinic had on offer I would be ushered in to her room for a fleeting exam,and rushed out soon after.
One day I was visiting a friend and he mentioned that his cousin, who was a Gynaec, had opened a new clinic in my area.That turned out be life saving info for me later, when I developed a serious problem that needed SOS treatment.Off I went to the new clinic,and was in the patient's seat within a few minutes-no waiting room and endless reading old mags (I did pick up some great household tips off one of the women's Mag's in ex docs clinic,though I never remember them when I need them).
Now,seven years later,I still have my friends cousin as my Gynaec (who was equally good if not better )and it worked much better for me then the "famous"one.

5."..Look at what the cat dragged in ..."
Okay,seriously no stylist would ever really have the guts to say that to your face (at least, none that I know of)but some can definitely make you feel that way.
Here is a rule that I now pretty much always follow:If being around a particular person,object,or place makes you feel angsty,uncomfortable or dreadful for no particular reason-RUN don't walk.
Yeah someone may argue that some vague Jungian philosophy explains that the person you are uncomfortable with,may have nothing to do with your angst-they may just vaguely remind you of an unlikable figure from the past and put all your Neuro peptides into "regress"mode.It could be that,or it could be that they just don't like you,are secretly making fun of you or are just a downright "bi**h".Either ways its doesn't matter-Choose a stylist you are happy and comfy being around and don't stick around with one that doesn't make you smile-for whatever reasons!
So basically, being nice and respectful, and loving the other and your selves ,you should set the tone for a fruitful and happy Stylist/Client relationship .
My next article, will cover in more detail, tips,on how you can choose a stylist who is right for you.
Till then, love the one you've got!Happy Beautification and many more years of joyful styling relationships!